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A Time/Space Oasis –Taipei Botanical Garden (TAIPEI QUARTERLY 2016 WINTER Vol.06)

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Post date:2017-03-10

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Travels Through Time and Timeless Beauty
A Time/Space Oasis –Taipei Botanical Garden

Article_Xu Ciqian
Photos_Shi Chuntai
 
If the novel Ryu can be described as a youth novel, the Taipei Botanical Garden, which makes repeated appearances in the book together with scenes of first love, can be said to be a place blooming with the hard-to-miss poetry of the old city. Protagonist Ye Qiusheng (葉秋生) makes frequent visits to the garden. In the beginning, this is to trace the reasons behind the death of his grandfather. Later, he comes to talk of love. In the 1970s and 1980s, the Taipei Botanical Garden was busy morning to night. At daybreak, seniors would come to practice tai chi or ballroom dancing, or carry out another form of exercise. During the day, many students would be by Lotus Pond sketching. With nightfall, the garden became an oasis for sweethearts. When Qiusheng takes Mao Mao (毛毛) to the garden it is a confirmation of their relationship. The scene is set thus in the novel: amidst the grove of bamboo, sweetheart couples line the railings of the pond-side pavilion. “The couples are perched like sparrows on a telephone line.” Pairs do silent battle with each other any time a space opens up, vying to fill it.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 A Time/Space Oasis –Taipei Botanical Garden
▲ The poetic rhythms of the old city are difficult to ignore during a Taipei Botanical Garden visit. (Photo: Department of Information and Tourism, Taipei City Government)
 
For today’s generation, romantic relationships are more open and straightforward, and the whole city serves as a stage for lovers. The botanical garden is still a place for the elderly and their morning fitness routines, and a pilgrimage spot for students to sketch and paint lotus blossoms, as well as for photo buffs. And now, as before, the garden landscaping exists in attractive harmony with the architecture of the Nanhai Academy (南海學園) historical buildings spread about the grounds.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 A Time/Space Oasis –Taipei Botanical Garden
▲ A familiar early morning sight at the garden is groups of people practicing tai chi and exercising. (Photo: Shi Chuntai)
 
Exotic Plants and Flowers Bring Out The Beauty of Heritage Sites 
However, what the author of Ryu, Akira Higashiyama, has always loved best about the botanical garden is its tropical plants. Their shadows shelter people from the boiling heat, and they accompany the field of lotus blooming during summertime. Established 120 years ago, the garden occupies 8.2 hectares, within which over 2,000 plant species are cultivated. Such botanical classrooms are precious rarities within the heart of a city. In addition to the evergreens and pageantry of the seasonal flowers is a rich array of cultural attractions. Throughout the park and grounds of neighboring Jianguo High School (建國中學) are archeological sites from what is called the “Botanical Garden Culture” (植物園文化), from the Neolithic period around 3,000 years ago. Also within the park is the Guest House of Imperial Envoys (欽差行臺), a city-designated historic site. This was the largest government-office complex built in Taiwan during the Qing Dynasty, with a total of 18 structures. Today, the only sections remaining are the main gate for the local security garrison and a portion of the main hall, built by Taiwan Governor Tang Jing-song (唐景崧). In the early Japanese period, the Taiwan Governor General’s Office was located in the former security garrison facility – i.e., before the completion of today’s Presidential Office Building (總統府) this was the seat of the highest authority in the land. A little time spent here gives a strong feeling for the majesty of the office and sophistication of the architecture.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 A Time/Space Oasis –Taipei Botanical Garden
▲ The Guest House of Imperial Envoys, a city-designated historic site, is on the garden grounds. (Photo: Shi Chuntai)
 
The National Museum of History (國立歷史博物館), located within the Taipei Botanical Garden, offers a rich supply of exhibitions and arts and culture activities. These splendidly complement a slow stroll through the light and shadow of the garden, enjoying the wonders of the exotic flowers and plants in the Chinese Zodiac Plants Garden, Chinese Classical Literature Botanical Garden, and other sections. Whether you come with your sweetheart to whisper sweet nothings, to do some photography or sketching, or simply to linger on the benches spending a half-day contentedly mulling over this and that, the Taipei Botanical Garden is more than the “lungs of the city” – it is a serene oasis for mind and spirit. Here, spend some of your free time enjoying the “luxury of happiness.”

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