The Art of Wealth Seeking: Temples and Culture in Taipei (TAIPEI Quarterly 2023 Winter Vol.34)Post date：2023-12-11
849
TAIPEI #34 (2023 Winter)
The Art of Wealth Seeking: Temples and Culture in Taipei
Author Jenna Lynn Cody
Photographer Zifilm Studio, Songshan Xiahai City God Temple, Songshan Ciyou Temple, Che Wen, Guandu Temple, Department of Information and Tourism, Taipei City Government
▲During the Lunar New Year, it is a traditional custom for people in Taiwan to visit temples to pray for wealth and peace. (Photo・Zifilm Studio)
While people around the world might simply wish for more money, in Taiwan wealth and prosperity are symbolically intertwined with good luck, especially during the Lunar New Year. This is reflected in the giving of red envelopes stuffed with money not just as gifts, but for luck, and in greetings and songs that translate to "I hope you get rich! (恭喜發財)." In fact, one such song, "Here Comes the God of Wealth (財神到)," centers the God of Wealth in New Year celebrations.
The Many Faces of Gods of Wealth
The concept of a god of wealth transcends culture; most polytheistic religious beliefs include one, alongside gods reigning over concepts such as chance and good fortune. Some have more than one god overseeing prosperity and riches, and Taiwan is no different. The traditional song may say that the god of wealth — Caishen (財神) — is coming, but it may be surprising to learn that there is more than one.
The various gods of wealth have been identified across the centuries as far back as the Qin Dynasty, as well as with cardinal and ordinal directions, different elements, and colors. Wealth gods can also be classified by function, primarily in regard to profession and method of acquiring wealth.
Notably, there are the Wen (文, Civil), Wu (武, Military), and Pian (偏, Luck) gods, each with a distinct function. The Wen God of Wealth, is venerated by civil servants and those not directly involved in business. The Wu God of Wealth has closer ties to industry, trade, and businesspeople. The Pian God of Wealth is associated with luck and has connections to the Earth God Tudi Gong (土地公), and the Tiger Lord (虎爺).
Throughout Taipei, many vibrant temples host altars dedicated to these gods of wealth. Below are four key temples for anyone looking for prosperity in the Year of the Dragon.
Songshan Xiahai City God Temple: The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions
The Songshan Xiahai City God Temple (松山霞海城隍廟) was founded in the 19th century by a businessman named Lu Laixing (呂來興) from Quanzhou, China. Lu invoked the Xiahai City God during his voyages across the Taiwan Strait, which led to favorable weather and prosperous ventures. In gratitude for the area's beauty and prosperity, a shrine dedicated to the Gods of Wealth of Five Directions (五路財神) was added to the temple after its consecration.
▲In the 1970s, as the government needed to widen the road, local gentry raised funds to relocate the Songshan Xiahai City God Temple to its current location. (Photo・Songshan Xiahai City God Temple)
The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions are based on an ancient tale involving Zhao Gongming (趙公明), a Taoist hermit with magical powers. Zhao is known as the Wu God of Wealth and presides over the Five Directions as the Center Wealth God.
The Center Wealth God's four sworn brothers represent the Gods of Wealth in the cardinal directions. The North Wealth God is the God of Profitability (利市仙官) and is associated with markets and shops. The East Wealth God is associated with jewelry and precious stones, also known as the God of Collecting Treasures (招寶天尊). The South Wealth God is the God of Attracting Wealth (招財使者) and is associated with buying low and selling high. The West Wealth God is known for possessing especially rare treasures that can ward off the cold and is worshiped as the God of Collecting Valuables (納珍天尊).
The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions attract numerous devotees. It is worth noting that the traditional event at this temple is the "Welcoming the God of Wealth" on the first business day of the Lunar New Year. Temple staff distribute auspicious money packets at the temple's entrance, attracting a large crowd of worshipers who eagerly line up to receive them.
Songshan Ciyou Temple: The Tiger Lord
Songshan Ciyou Temple (松山慈祐宮) is found next to the bustling Raohe Night Market (饒河夜市). The temple boasts several floors, an expansive front hall and multiple wings. Founded by a traveling monk in the 18th century, the temple is considered one of the most important Mazu (媽祖) temples in northern Taiwan.
▲The Mazu deity of Songshan Ciyou Temple is at the center of religious life for local residents in Taipei. (Photo・Songshan Ciyou Temple)
In addition to Mazu, the Tiger Lord (虎爺) can also be found here. The Tiger Lord is not only the mount of various Gods, he is also a god of wealth in his own right. In fact, the pronunciation of "Tiger Lord" in the Taiwanese dialect, hóo-iâ, sounds like hó-gia̍h, literally "being wealthy."
▲The money mother granted by the Tiger Lord is believed to bless worshippers with good fortune. (Photo・Che Wen)
As the old saying goes, "Tiger Lord's bite brings money (虎爺咬錢來)." There is a very popular custom to perform the "money water ritual (換錢水)" to "seek the money mother (求錢母)." First, worshippers pay their respects to every god in the temple. Then, they go to the Tiger Lord with an offering — raw meat, fish, eggs and sweets are popular — and state their name, address, and birthday. Worshippers place a coin in a bowl of water and coins and take away a coin of lesser value. The idea is that the money water will make one's wealth flow in, so it is important not to shake the water off the coins. These coins should be circled three times over the incense burner and placed in a small bag.
Guandu Temple: Caishen Cave
Guandu Temple (關渡宮) in Beitou is dedicated to Mazu and is considered one of the three most important Mazu Temples in Taiwan, the other two being Beigang Chaotian Temple (北港朝天宮) in Yunlin, and Lugang Mazu Temple (鹿港天后宮) in Changhua.
▲Guandu Temple boasts a rich history, with a legacy spanning over three centuries, making it the oldest Mazu temple in northern Taiwan. (Photo・Zifilm Studio)
Guandu Temple includes a unique feature: the Caishen Cave (財神洞), a man-made tunnel leading from a side entrance to the back of one of the main temple halls. Caishen Cave was built between 1981 and 2000 by drilling into the nearby hill and features five gods of wealth. While similar to the Gods of Wealth of Five Directions, these specific wealth gods have different historical associations, and some, such as Jilun (季倫) and Shen Wansan (沈萬三), are primarily popular in Taiwan.
▲In Guandu Temple's Caishen Cave, there are tens of meters of hallway endowed with various gods of wealth, where worshippers can seek good fortune. (Photo・Guandu Temple)
One of these gods is the aforementioned Zhao Gongming. The second is the Blessed Heaven Emperor (天官賜福). It's said that he descends on the fifteenth day of each lunar month to judge the sins of mortals and dole out blessings. Devotees can also light a small lamp at his shrine to enhance their careers and attract wealth. The third is Wenbi Wealth God (文比財神), also known as Prince Bigan (比干). According to legend, Bigan was an honest minister who lived in the 10th century B.C.E. He was ordered to cut out his own heart by the cruel King Zhou of Shang and obeyed.
The next shrine in Caishen Cave is dedicated to Jilun Wealth God, who was said to have been richer than the emperor himself. Jilun is futher associated with the "luck star (祿星)" in Chinese Mythology. Finally, one can find Shen Wansan, who was an extremely wealthy man in the late Yuan Dynasty. One story says he helped to finance one-third of the construction costs of the city of Nanjing.
Xingtian Temple: Five Enzhus
Towering over the Minquan-Songjiang intersection, Xingtian Temple (行天宮) is one of the newer temples in Taipei. Established in 1967, it reflects mid-century design sensibilities. Xingtian Temple also made history by being the first place of worship in Taiwan to go green, giving up incense use in 2014.
▲The most distinctive features of Xingtian Temple are the fact that no rituals involving animals are held, no burning of joss paper, no theatrical performances for the gods, no fundraising, and no commercial activities of any kind. (Photo・Department of Information and Tourism, Taipei City Government)
The temple is primarily known for its dedication to Guan Yu (關羽), a military commander famed for his appearance along with Cao Cao (曹操) and Zhuge Liang (諸葛亮) in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms. Guan Yu is also a Wu God of Wealth. In local folklore, it is believed that Guan Yu excelled in financial management, had a keen sense for accounting, and held high values of integrity. This belief attracts devotees who seek Guan Yu's assistance, hoping that business partners will treat each other with integrity and that their enterprises can prosper or make a comeback.
In addition to Guan Yu, the temple also venerates five deities. These are known as the "Five Enzhus (五恩主)", literally five benefactors, as they have the ability to confer prosperity, bless worshippers and avert disasters. The other Enzhus beside Guan Yu include Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓), a Tang Dynasty poet; the Kitchen God Zhang Dan (灶神張單) ; Heavenly Marshall Wang Lingguan (靈官王天君), a Song Dynasty Taoist master; and Song Dynasty military commander Yue Fei (岳飛), also known as King Wumu (武穆王).
Besides, Xingtian Temple offers one of the most representative folk traditional therapies — Siu-kiann (收驚). Temple staff will first ask for the person's name and then request the Enzhu Guan Yu to take charge and protect them, with the process lasting about two minutes. The large number of worshippers not only highlights the temple's significant status, but also reflects the fervent religious demands of modern urban residents.
These temples invite us to explore the art of wealth seeking, not just in monetary terms but as a holistic journey encompassing virtue, prosperity, and the eternal quest for balance. In the ever-turning wheel of fortune, they are beacons of hope and guidance, reminding us that wealth, in all its forms, is a treasure worth pursuing with wisdom and devotion.
The Art of Wealth Seeking: Temples and Culture in Taipei
Author Jenna Lynn Cody
Photographer Zifilm Studio, Songshan Xiahai City God Temple, Songshan Ciyou Temple, Che Wen, Guandu Temple, Department of Information and Tourism, Taipei City Government
▲During the Lunar New Year, it is a traditional custom for people in Taiwan to visit temples to pray for wealth and peace. (Photo・Zifilm Studio)While people around the world might simply wish for more money, in Taiwan wealth and prosperity are symbolically intertwined with good luck, especially during the Lunar New Year. This is reflected in the giving of red envelopes stuffed with money not just as gifts, but for luck, and in greetings and songs that translate to "I hope you get rich! (恭喜發財)." In fact, one such song, "Here Comes the God of Wealth (財神到)," centers the God of Wealth in New Year celebrations.
The Many Faces of Gods of Wealth
The concept of a god of wealth transcends culture; most polytheistic religious beliefs include one, alongside gods reigning over concepts such as chance and good fortune. Some have more than one god overseeing prosperity and riches, and Taiwan is no different. The traditional song may say that the god of wealth — Caishen (財神) — is coming, but it may be surprising to learn that there is more than one.
The various gods of wealth have been identified across the centuries as far back as the Qin Dynasty, as well as with cardinal and ordinal directions, different elements, and colors. Wealth gods can also be classified by function, primarily in regard to profession and method of acquiring wealth.
Notably, there are the Wen (文, Civil), Wu (武, Military), and Pian (偏, Luck) gods, each with a distinct function. The Wen God of Wealth, is venerated by civil servants and those not directly involved in business. The Wu God of Wealth has closer ties to industry, trade, and businesspeople. The Pian God of Wealth is associated with luck and has connections to the Earth God Tudi Gong (土地公), and the Tiger Lord (虎爺).
Throughout Taipei, many vibrant temples host altars dedicated to these gods of wealth. Below are four key temples for anyone looking for prosperity in the Year of the Dragon.
Songshan Xiahai City God Temple: The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions
The Songshan Xiahai City God Temple (松山霞海城隍廟) was founded in the 19th century by a businessman named Lu Laixing (呂來興) from Quanzhou, China. Lu invoked the Xiahai City God during his voyages across the Taiwan Strait, which led to favorable weather and prosperous ventures. In gratitude for the area's beauty and prosperity, a shrine dedicated to the Gods of Wealth of Five Directions (五路財神) was added to the temple after its consecration.
▲In the 1970s, as the government needed to widen the road, local gentry raised funds to relocate the Songshan Xiahai City God Temple to its current location. (Photo・Songshan Xiahai City God Temple)The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions are based on an ancient tale involving Zhao Gongming (趙公明), a Taoist hermit with magical powers. Zhao is known as the Wu God of Wealth and presides over the Five Directions as the Center Wealth God.
The Center Wealth God's four sworn brothers represent the Gods of Wealth in the cardinal directions. The North Wealth God is the God of Profitability (利市仙官) and is associated with markets and shops. The East Wealth God is associated with jewelry and precious stones, also known as the God of Collecting Treasures (招寶天尊). The South Wealth God is the God of Attracting Wealth (招財使者) and is associated with buying low and selling high. The West Wealth God is known for possessing especially rare treasures that can ward off the cold and is worshiped as the God of Collecting Valuables (納珍天尊).
The Gods of Wealth of Five Directions attract numerous devotees. It is worth noting that the traditional event at this temple is the "Welcoming the God of Wealth" on the first business day of the Lunar New Year. Temple staff distribute auspicious money packets at the temple's entrance, attracting a large crowd of worshipers who eagerly line up to receive them.
Songshan Ciyou Temple: The Tiger Lord
Songshan Ciyou Temple (松山慈祐宮) is found next to the bustling Raohe Night Market (饒河夜市). The temple boasts several floors, an expansive front hall and multiple wings. Founded by a traveling monk in the 18th century, the temple is considered one of the most important Mazu (媽祖) temples in northern Taiwan.
▲The Mazu deity of Songshan Ciyou Temple is at the center of religious life for local residents in Taipei. (Photo・Songshan Ciyou Temple)In addition to Mazu, the Tiger Lord (虎爺) can also be found here. The Tiger Lord is not only the mount of various Gods, he is also a god of wealth in his own right. In fact, the pronunciation of "Tiger Lord" in the Taiwanese dialect, hóo-iâ, sounds like hó-gia̍h, literally "being wealthy."
▲The money mother granted by the Tiger Lord is believed to bless worshippers with good fortune. (Photo・Che Wen)As the old saying goes, "Tiger Lord's bite brings money (虎爺咬錢來)." There is a very popular custom to perform the "money water ritual (換錢水)" to "seek the money mother (求錢母)." First, worshippers pay their respects to every god in the temple. Then, they go to the Tiger Lord with an offering — raw meat, fish, eggs and sweets are popular — and state their name, address, and birthday. Worshippers place a coin in a bowl of water and coins and take away a coin of lesser value. The idea is that the money water will make one's wealth flow in, so it is important not to shake the water off the coins. These coins should be circled three times over the incense burner and placed in a small bag.
Guandu Temple: Caishen Cave
Guandu Temple (關渡宮) in Beitou is dedicated to Mazu and is considered one of the three most important Mazu Temples in Taiwan, the other two being Beigang Chaotian Temple (北港朝天宮) in Yunlin, and Lugang Mazu Temple (鹿港天后宮) in Changhua.
▲Guandu Temple boasts a rich history, with a legacy spanning over three centuries, making it the oldest Mazu temple in northern Taiwan. (Photo・Zifilm Studio)Guandu Temple includes a unique feature: the Caishen Cave (財神洞), a man-made tunnel leading from a side entrance to the back of one of the main temple halls. Caishen Cave was built between 1981 and 2000 by drilling into the nearby hill and features five gods of wealth. While similar to the Gods of Wealth of Five Directions, these specific wealth gods have different historical associations, and some, such as Jilun (季倫) and Shen Wansan (沈萬三), are primarily popular in Taiwan.
▲In Guandu Temple's Caishen Cave, there are tens of meters of hallway endowed with various gods of wealth, where worshippers can seek good fortune. (Photo・Guandu Temple)One of these gods is the aforementioned Zhao Gongming. The second is the Blessed Heaven Emperor (天官賜福). It's said that he descends on the fifteenth day of each lunar month to judge the sins of mortals and dole out blessings. Devotees can also light a small lamp at his shrine to enhance their careers and attract wealth. The third is Wenbi Wealth God (文比財神), also known as Prince Bigan (比干). According to legend, Bigan was an honest minister who lived in the 10th century B.C.E. He was ordered to cut out his own heart by the cruel King Zhou of Shang and obeyed.
The next shrine in Caishen Cave is dedicated to Jilun Wealth God, who was said to have been richer than the emperor himself. Jilun is futher associated with the "luck star (祿星)" in Chinese Mythology. Finally, one can find Shen Wansan, who was an extremely wealthy man in the late Yuan Dynasty. One story says he helped to finance one-third of the construction costs of the city of Nanjing.
Xingtian Temple: Five Enzhus
Towering over the Minquan-Songjiang intersection, Xingtian Temple (行天宮) is one of the newer temples in Taipei. Established in 1967, it reflects mid-century design sensibilities. Xingtian Temple also made history by being the first place of worship in Taiwan to go green, giving up incense use in 2014.
▲The most distinctive features of Xingtian Temple are the fact that no rituals involving animals are held, no burning of joss paper, no theatrical performances for the gods, no fundraising, and no commercial activities of any kind. (Photo・Department of Information and Tourism, Taipei City Government)The temple is primarily known for its dedication to Guan Yu (關羽), a military commander famed for his appearance along with Cao Cao (曹操) and Zhuge Liang (諸葛亮) in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms. Guan Yu is also a Wu God of Wealth. In local folklore, it is believed that Guan Yu excelled in financial management, had a keen sense for accounting, and held high values of integrity. This belief attracts devotees who seek Guan Yu's assistance, hoping that business partners will treat each other with integrity and that their enterprises can prosper or make a comeback.
In addition to Guan Yu, the temple also venerates five deities. These are known as the "Five Enzhus (五恩主)", literally five benefactors, as they have the ability to confer prosperity, bless worshippers and avert disasters. The other Enzhus beside Guan Yu include Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓), a Tang Dynasty poet; the Kitchen God Zhang Dan (灶神張單) ; Heavenly Marshall Wang Lingguan (靈官王天君), a Song Dynasty Taoist master; and Song Dynasty military commander Yue Fei (岳飛), also known as King Wumu (武穆王).
Besides, Xingtian Temple offers one of the most representative folk traditional therapies — Siu-kiann (收驚). Temple staff will first ask for the person's name and then request the Enzhu Guan Yu to take charge and protect them, with the process lasting about two minutes. The large number of worshippers not only highlights the temple's significant status, but also reflects the fervent religious demands of modern urban residents.
These temples invite us to explore the art of wealth seeking, not just in monetary terms but as a holistic journey encompassing virtue, prosperity, and the eternal quest for balance. In the ever-turning wheel of fortune, they are beacons of hope and guidance, reminding us that wealth, in all its forms, is a treasure worth pursuing with wisdom and devotion.
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